Friday, May 23, 2014

UFO: 1905 Tucked Shirtwaist with Insertion

I began this "Unfinished Object" in the spring of 2012, while I was still in high school and just being introduced to the Edwardian period. I wanted to try out the Costumer's Manifesto free c. 1905 Shirtwaist pattern. In the dawn of my historical sewing, I printed the pattern and scaled it up with a whole lot of guesstimating...I remember taking the measurements listed around some of the pattern pieces and using ratios and some kind of made-up algebra to determine the missing measurements. I could've spared myself the brain damage by just buying some french curves.

You can see some of my crazy math on the left.
This was my first experience in making pintucks. I used a really convoluted method wherein I measured half the distance of the pintuck from its middle point, drew lines, and then matched them up. I believe I found this method online, but it produced squiggly, sloppy pintucks and was difficult. I put the project away after I burned a few fingers on my iron trying to smooth out these little devils--I just needed to literally cool down a bit and see how others made pintucks.

Bodice front. Seven pintucks on each side of the center fold.

I picked this up again as soon as my semester ended just to have some noncommittal, easy sewing. I painstakingly ripped out each pintuck, and sewed new ones by simply folding the fabric, pressing, and sewing. It is a much simpler process and produces a more uniform set of pintucks.

After / Before
The shirtwaist is made of the same cotton lawn as my Italian Renaissance Camicia, salvaged from an old sheet.

I couldn't find insertion lace that I liked until the summer of 2012 when I was vacationing in Portugal. At a large outdoor market in Oliveirinha, Aveiro, I found a vendor selling all sorts of beautiful, cotton machine-crocheted lace that looked so far from that shiny, stiff stuff at Joann's. I miraculously found a perfect lace insertion--for only 40 cents a meter!! I bought the whole stock the vendor had (a little over 4 meters).

Have you ever found the perfect lace or trim in an unusual or unexpected place?

1 comment:

  1. Your shirtwaste is looking fabulous! Pintucks can be quite vexing for me....but yours are looking great! What a fun thing to find that lace and at such a wonderful price!! Yeah for you and awesome sauce vendors!!! Can't wait to see the finished product!