Wednesday, June 17, 2015

Tucked Petticoat with Crochet Lace


The past month has passed in a flurry of sewing as I've created, from the skin out, an outfit for a Portuguese country woman in the late 19th and early 20th century! You can read more about the petticoats (known as saiotes in Portuguese) used with the Portuguese folkloric costume here.

The first item I made was a white cotton petticoat, trimmed with three .5 inch pintucks and wide white crochet lace. The white cotton fabric and lace were purchased in Portugal and are of exceptional quality. The fabric already was lightly starched, perfect for a nice, full petticoat.

My petticoat only has a 3 yard circumference because I only had 3 yards of lace. I consulted a few websites that sell extant petticoats or reproductions of petticoats for use by folk dancing groups, and this seems to be an average hem circumference. The lace is hand sewn to the hem of the petticoat, and the waistband is also hand sewn.

Very convincing machine-made crochet lace!
The side seams were pressed open, then folded and stitched down. This appears not to be a very secure type of seam, but at least it isn't bulky; I don't anticipate that the petticoat will take too much strain anyway.
It is gathered to a 1" wide waistband, which fastens with a tab and bright blue button. This fastening is supported by evidence in petticoats of the period. The waistband rests lower on my hips so as to reduce the pressure of waistbands (from the petticoats, skirt, apron, and pocket) digging into my waist.

A diagram of period appropriate closures for petticoats (saiotes and saiotes travados) via Trajes de Portugal
The petticoat fastens on the left side of my body.
My only regret with this project was placing the buttonhole too close to the tab edge! This was my first time using the buttonhole function on my new sewing machine.

This was a fun and quick project! I see where I could improve on the next petticoat, but I still love this one very much. It was just the thing to motivate and prepare me for a long month of furiously sewing the rest of my turn of the century folk outfit. And it's nice to have a little petticoat to dance around in!

What is your favorite seam technique and closure for petticoats?

3 comments:

  1. Hello Gabriela! What a beautiful, new petticoat - I love tucks & neat button closures!! I so can't wait to see the rest of your Portuguese folk outfit - it's going to be awesome!

    Also, I've nominated you for a Sisterhood of the World Bloggers Award! (Link here: http://youngsewphisticate.blogspot.com/2015/06/sisterhood-of-world-blogger-award.html) Have fun & keep inspiring us, Anneliese :)

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  2. Absolutely lovely! I like flat felled seams myself, if I'm not doing pocket inserts, that is! I'm just cutting out a cotton 1890s petticoat now. I want to made a waistband with ties so that other sized ladies can wear it too. Wish I had time to make those nice tucks!
    All the best,
    Nancy N

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  3. Beautiful petticoat Gabriela! It looks so very antique and perfect! Love the tucks and the crocheted lace...so wonderfully made!!
    Blessings!
    g

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