Pink Floral Cotton Button-Front Dress

November 17, 2023

Pink Floral Cotton Button-Front Dress | McCalls 7974

I recently finished McCalls 7974, a popular pattern for a button-front dress with a midriff, pockets, length variations, and sleeve variations (including a super cute keyhole sleeve). I made the skirt length of View C with the keyhole sleeve from View A. I used a pink floral Sevenberry cotton lawn from Fabric Mart Fabrics.

Alterations

I pinched about 1/4" from the front neckline. I shortened the bodice by 1/2". I also raised the neckline by about an inch.

I found that my fabric was a bit sheer, so halfway through construction I decided to add a lining. I used the very last of my white pimatex cotton (the perfect fabric for making Victorian undergarments!) to line the skirt and bodice. I had already cut out the bodice front facings, so stitched those to the bodice lining pieces, and then attached that unit to the bodice lining midriff. I handstitched the yoke onto to the lining.

Keyhole Sleeve

The pattern instructs you to finish the keyhole opening with bias binding, which might work if you use very narrow, flexible binding - that store-bought stuff won't do. I saw lots of other reviews of this pattern complaining that as drafted, the binding flips out and the keyhole won't lay flat.

I decided to draft a facing for the keyhole instead of using binding. My facing was interfaced and serged around the outer edge, stitched right sides together on the keyhole, then the seam allowance was pinked (better than clipping for such a tight curve in my opinion) and the facing turned to the inside and topstitched. This led to a perfectly neat and flat keyhole!

Other Details

I french seamed the skirt seams, skirt lining seams, and sleeve seams. The skirt and skirt lining were hemmed separately, with the skirt lining being hemmed 5/8" shorter than the skirt.

I added an extra button to the front to account for raising the neckline. I used pearly buttons from Joann's.

Overall, I would recommend this pattern, with the caveat that it has a lot of pattern pieces and details, so approach it with patience. It's rated as "easy" which I'd argue is innacurate - it took me a month to make and I consider myself an experienced sewist. Make a mockup, keep track of the many pattern pieces, and take your time. The finished dress is super cute and comfy and has a delightful vintage / cottagecore vibe.

For my next version of this pattern, I'd add more fullness to the skirt.