1880s Bustle Ensemble - Sewing the Bodice

Once I had the mockup sorted out for my 1880s bodice - I used the Laughing Moon 1890s pattern as my starting point - I could move on to construction. The bodice was made from a polyester brocade fabric flatlined in white cotton. I carefully arranged the pattern pieces on the floral motifs of the brocade to get mirror images of the motifs. The brocade design has a very large repeat, so I prioritized using a reasonable amount of fabric over having perfectly mirrored motifs - I still needed a lot of fabric for the bustle skirt! 

Each seam was bound with rayon seam binding, sewn on with running stitches. I got this roll of binding from Wawak. I also used this seam binding to create boning channels. I used German plastic whalebone for the boning. Bones were placed at each seam and the darts.

I love this finish, it takes some time but is pretty repetitive and relaxing to sew.

I wanted a contrast piece of fabric at the back of the bodice to flare out over the bustle.  The center back seam was left unstitched for about 4 inches, and a rectangle of coordinating pink polyester satin, with a center inverted box pleat, was added here.

The sleeve lining and piping (used to finish off the neckline and hem edges of the bodice) was also cut from this pink polyester satin. This satin was lightweight, flexible, and best of all, in my stash (as existing scraps from several other projects). This entire project came together with stash materials!

I used the View D sleeve pattern, shortened to about elbow length. I also removed about an inch of width from the sleeve cap. I left about 2 inches unstitched at the bottom of the sleeves so that I could turn up the lining for a contrast cuff. I had to take the cuffs in place, because this brocade fabric unfortunately doesn't press well (and it frays SO MUCH). 

For additional flare over the bustle, I opened up the one of the side back seams. In hindsight, I should've opened up the seams closer to the center back, as I don't think the flare is quite right.

The front edges of the bodices were turned in and finished with seam binding to provide a sturdy base for the hooks and eyes to be sewn onto. I finished the bottom of the bodice with a wide bias facing, and the top of the bodice with a piping facing - my favorite sewing technique from the mid 19th century!

Unfortunately I forgot to look at my notes before sewing on the neckline piping, and sewed it with a larger seam allowance than intended. The neckline turned out too low and wide... Thankfully, I found a few examples of a period-correct solution to use a wide piece of gathered lace across the neckline.

Evening dress, 1881-84 from the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Dinner dress, 1880s

I ran a ribbon through the bias piping facing, to help snug in the neckline, and tacked on a wide piece of lace with a ribbon run through the edge. I also saw this technique in Costumes in Detail.