Dirndl-Inspired Bodice | Burda 09/2018 133

 

If you've seen me at a New York Historical Costumer Society event, there's a strong chance I was wearing my trusty Simplicity 8162 18th century stays - whether underneath an outfit or as a focal point in a witchy or hobbit ensemble. With a few spring Hobbit-themed events on my calendar, I decided to change up my usual Hobbit look with a dirndl-inspired bodice, something lightweight and comfy to wear at warmer picnics.

I wanted to use all stash materials for this project. For the pattern, I modified the Dirndl 133 from Burda 09/2018. I used just the bodice pieces and pinched out excess fabric at the side front at side back seams to accommodate for not having sleeves attached. I also shortened the pattern by half an inch at the waist and tapered in the shoulder straps slightly. 

My fabric is a 1970s-90s pink corduroy that was full of (water?) stains - huge brown blotches along the fold lines that not even 3 washes in Oxiclean could remove. I had to cut carefully around the unsoiled yardage. The bodice is lined with a scrap of 1980s-90s cotton. The buttons are metal stand buttons that I harvested from a medieval dress I made over a decade ago.

Dirndl pattern in the 09/2018 issue of Burda Style magazine

My edition of the 09/2018 Burda magazine is in Portuguese and I find their instructions difficult to follow at the best of times (just because of the language barrier I think!). I followed my intuition for the construction, assembling the bodice as follows:

- sew together all outer pieces of the bodice

- sew together all lining pieces of the bodice

- sew the lining shell to the outer shell, right sides together, at the neckline and armholes; leave 2 inches unsewn on the straps near the shoulder seam (the shoulder seams aren't sewn together)
- turn the bodice right side out

- sew together the outer shoulder seams, and the lining shoulder seams

- turn in the remaining seam allowances along the straps and hand stitch together

- turn in the seam allowance along the bottom of the bodice and hand stitch together

This was a super quick and easy project, and I've already worn the bodice with my modern wardrobe because it's so comfy. Sure, it wrinkles along the torso but that is just because there is nothing pulling the fabric down, like boning; I find the wrinkles look charming and "lived in." It's unclear to me if the original Burda pattern calls for boning or not, but a skirt is sewn to the bottom of the bodice in the Burda pattern.

For my spring Hobbit look, I wore my pink corduroy bodice with my handsewn 18th century linen shift, my plaid ruffled apron, and my green cartridge pleated skirt. You can learn how to make this skirt here!

I'm excited to wear this outfit for years to come!