Making an 1860s Corset | Simplicity 2890

 


The Simplicity 2890 corset was the first corset I ever made, nearly 10 years ago. That first version was always a smidge too tight (I made the size 8), and the construction was awkward because of how I layered up cotton sateen, cotton lawn (to add opacity to the sateen... I should have just used a fusible interfacing!) and cotton canvas. It was definitely time for a new, well-fitting, well-made corset.

I revisited Simplicity 2890 for my new corset, since I did like the construction and patterning. It's a single layer corset with boning channels stitched onto the wrong side (although my first version was essentially a two layer corset with boning channels stitched through the layers of fabric). 

I've used this pattern several times for the chemise and drawers as well.




This corset is made of two pieces, a front and back, with shaping provided by gores and a long tuck at the front. There is also a facing for the center front busk.


Materials

For my new version of this corset, I used a lavender/grey spot broche coutil fabric I had in my stash for a long time. I only used about 1/4 of a yard of fabric, and I have just enough left over to make another corset... perhaps an Edwardian corset next time?

The pattern calls for a 12 inch long busk, but both times I've made this corset, I used an 11 inch busk instead. I find the 11 inch busk fits better along the front edge, and is personally more comfortable for me.

I purchased my busk, precut flat steel boning, and size 00 grommets from Wawak.

The pattern calls for 3/4 inch wide twill tape for boning casings, but I felt that this 3/8 inch twill tape was more appropriate.

I used 5/8 inch wide petersham ribbon to bind the top and bottom edges of the corset. 




Size & Fit

I used the size 10 for my new corset. The measurements for size 10 on the pattern packet match my measurements, and the final fit of the corset was pretty spot-on. I didn't perceive there to be extra ease on the pattern draft.

I'm short waisted, and find this pattern suits my shape well. I didn't make any adjustments for my height or waist-to-bust measurement.

I'm not sure how the ease and sizing of this pattern scales up for other sizes.





Sewing Video Tutorial

See a full video walkthrough of making the Simplicity 2890 corset in my video below.



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