Step 1: Determine how wide and long your petticoat will be
Step 2: Cut panels and sew them together
(Optional) Sew tucks, lace trim, etc.
Step 3: Hem your petticoat
Step 4: Placket opening
Step 5: Gather top of petticoat
- cartridge pleats/gauging is a documentable, historically accurate method
- easy to compress a large amount of fabric to a narrow waist
- the volume of the cartridge pleats/gauging adds "poof" to your hips, helping you achieve the mid-19th century silhouette
- it looks pretty!
Waist measurement - 26"
+ 1" length for seam allowance
+ 2" height for waistband
+ 1" seam allowance for waistband
For a final waistband rectangle of: 27" x 3"
Press the waistband seam allowances to the inside, and press the waistband in half along its length. Line up the seam allowance of the top of the (gauged) petticoat with the folded edge of the bottom of the waistband. Divide the skirt into halves, then quarters, then eights, etc, and match it up to the waistband at its half, quarter, eight points. I find it really difficult to pin at this stage, so I use a few tacking stitches instead!
Sew a whip stitch through each "hill" of the gathers. There's a great tutorial on this technique here. Flip the petticoat to the inside and fold the waistband down to fully encase the gathers. Now whip stitch through each "hill" of the gathers from this side!